Hailing from Melaka, I have a soft spot for Nyonya food.
Although the details are lost on me whether I truly have any Peranakan heritage, my grandma grew up with the Nyonya culture and would often whip up delicious dishes like pongteh and bubur cha cha.
As a home cook, there are dishes that she can’t (or just doesn’t want to) replicate though. But thankfully, Peranakan food isn’t too hard to come by in Melaka.
Nancy’s Kitchen in Kota Laksamana is one of the purveyors of the cuisine. With over 2,700 reviews on Google, the restaurant has certainly made quite a name for itself.
Born and raised in Melaka, Nancy—the owner and founder of the eponymous eatery—grew up in a Peranakan household. That meant that food was a big part of her life, and she was taught to cook at a young age.
“I always dreamt of opening my own restaurant in my early twenties, but raising my young children meant I had to wait until the right opportunity,” she shared with Vulcan Post.
While waiting for her golden opportunity, Nancy would sell homemade pineapple tarts while reselling T-shirts on the side to earn extra income.
The mother was finally able to realise her dreams in 1999. In October that year, she opened the doors to Nancy’s Kitchen for the first time.
Spreading her heritage
In Malaysian cooking, there’s a very popular phrase and practice called ‘agak agak,’ a saying that directly translates to ‘guess-guess’ or estimate.
With this culture comes a practice of never quite writing down recipes in detail. Rather, recipes were often passed down verbally and through demonstrations.
For Nancy, her family’s recipes were passed down from her great-grandmother, through watching and learning in her kitchen.
“I have vivid memories of my grandmother’s strict instructions and the ‘pantang larang’ (taboos) I observed while I helped her cook,” she reminisced.
These memories have manifested as bestsellers in Nancy’s Kitchen, such as Pongteh Pork, Assam Fish, Pai Tee, and Popiah. Nancy’s personal favourite is Ayam Buah Keluak, which comprises chicken, tamarind gravy, and buah keluak nuts.
While fond memories of passed-down recipes are a great starting point, running a restaurant demands consistency.
“I can’t just ‘agak-agak’ measurements; I need to use the best available resources and ingredients to ensure my regular customers return for the familiar flavours they love,” Nancy said.
Managing expectations
Interestingly, Nancy shared that a big challenge she faced along the years was introducing her family’s authentic recipes to the Peranakan community, who often had varying expectations of familiar flavours.
At the same time, there was also the challenge of educating new customers about the staple dishes found in Peranakan homes.
“We received a lot of feedback, both positive and negative, and had to make adjustments along the way, especially regarding our raw meat suppliers,” Nancy expressed. “We even had to sever ties with some suppliers to ensure we were serving the highest quality dishes possible.”
Although Nancy’s Kitchen has gotten its fair share of critiques, the founder has also received direct feedback from satisfied customers. It’s a source of pride for her, seeing them bring home their rempah (spice paste) to recreate the dishes at home.
“And, most importantly, seeing their familiar faces return time and time again,” Nancy added.
Growing with Melaka
Over the years, Melaka has grown as a tourist hotspot, having earned its World Heritage status in 2008.
In tandem with that, Nancy’s Kitchen’s popularity has also grown over time. However, that comes with its own challenges.
“The increased demand meant longer wait times for tables and a need for faster turnover. We adapted by becoming more efficient in our service,” she said.
Growing interest in the cuisine also means heightened competition. But Nancy believes that her kitchen stands out with a focus on authenticity and remaining non-halal, even though that may limit their customer base.
“Many people are unaware that pork is a key ingredient in many authentic Peranakan dishes,” she expressed. “This focus on pork is what distinguishes us and allows us to serve truly authentic Peranakan cuisine.”
Nancy’s Kitchen’s customers typically comprise middle-aged and older individuals who are familiar with the food and culture, though tourists such as Singaporeans make up a large portion of their clientele too.
As Peranakan culture gains more recognition, the restaurant has also become popular with local Malaysian tourists and travellers from Japan, Korea, and China.
“More recently, since the pandemic, we’ve seen a surge in local interest. Food delivery services have made our dishes more accessible and helped to broaden our appeal within Melaka,” they said.
However, the pandemic affected other revenue streams, such as Nancy’s cooking classes, which have been halted since COVID-19.
A family business
Nancy has been steadfastly running her restaurant for 25 years—a milestone that is no small feat.
“Running a restaurant takes hard work, determination, and a lot of patience, especially when I first started on my own,” she expressed.
Today, she is joined by her daughter, sister, and brother who all work to preserve their family recipes.
“The satisfaction we get from our customers’ appreciation of our food is what has truly made this family-run business a success,” she said.
For others hoping to embark on their own entrepreneurial journey, as she once had, Nancy’s humble advice is to be patient and work hard, and your efforts will be rewarded in time.
“Second, love what you do. For me, that’s creating familiar, home-cooked Peranakan dishes,” she advised. “Finally, be generous. Even though there are other similar businesses, there’s enough to go around. It’s a cake to be shared.”
To continue sustaining the business, Nancy and her family are working to maintain their standards, ensuring the legacy of Nancy’s Kitchen continues by passing it on to the next generation.
Featured Image Credit: Nancy’s Kitchen
