The rise of vegan eateries in Kuala Lumpur is a trend that’s hard to miss. Among these culinary pioneers is The Hungry Tapir, a restaurant nestled in the bustling streets of Chinatown.
Helmed by a family deeply embedded in the creative industry, The Hungry Tapir brings together design, music, and a love for vegan cuisine, making it a standout spot in KL’s food scene.
The journey began in 2018 when Makissa, a former graphic design student, returned from London to Kuala Lumpur. With a background in digital marketing and experience working with startups like Rage Coffee, she was well-equipped to take on new challenges.
When Rage Coffee closed during the pandemic, she focused full-time on building The Hungry Tapir with her family.
“My background in design and marketing, my mum’s love for interior design, and my brother’s passion for music all came together. We were all involved in the creative industry, and it made sense to channel that creativity into a business we were all passionate about—food,” Makissa told Vulcan Post.
From pipe dream to reality
The family had always harboured dreams of opening a restaurant, but life and other commitments kept those dreams on the back burner.
The gentrification of Chinatown in 2019 brought new opportunities as more spaces became available for rent, spurred by the development of new establishments like the Four Points Hotel. This change in the landscape prompted the family to take a leap of faith.
“We didn’t do any pop-ups or test runs. It was the blind leading the blind,” the founder recalled with a laugh. “But once we found the space, we were all in. We envisioned a vegan, plant-based restaurant with a bar—something unique to KL’s culinary scene.”
“My mum was the one who first noticed these spaces in Chinatown. We looked at a few spots before settling on the one we have now. When we found it, we just knew. It was the perfect place to bring our dream to life.”
With a location secured, they quickly set about planning. They meticulously crafted everything, from the interiors to the branding and even the menu, albeit in a somewhat unconventional manner.
The family didn’t follow a traditional business model—they put their passions first, and the details fell into place as they went along. They completed the entire process, from signing the lease to opening their doors, in just two months.
“We winged it a lot. We didn’t have a full menu at first, just a few sharing dishes. It was all about trial and error, but looking back, it was as organic as it could have been. We learnt so much on the way.”
Growing pains and triumphs
Opening a restaurant in an old heritage building comes with its own set of challenges, and The Hungry Tapir was no exception.
Their first soft launch was fraught with issues, including a complete power outage on their street. They prepped by torchlight and cooked their debut buffet without electricity. Yet, these initial hurdles didn’t deter them. They pushed through, hosting a lively opening with Sabahan tuak shots and an all-you-can-eat vegan buffet.
“If there’s one thing we’ve learnt, it’s that Chinatown has its charms—and challenges. Our building is beautiful, but it requires a lot of maintenance. Even now, we’re constantly dealing with issues like leaks and power cuts.”
Just when they thought they had seen it all, COVID-19 hit. With barely two months of operation under their belt, The Hungry Tapir faced an unprecedented crisis.
Although many of their neighbouring businesses shuttered, the family remained determined to keep their dream alive. With no financial aid available due to their newness, they pivoted to deliveries, building a small menu and handling orders themselves.
Word spread and their customer base grew, allowing them to gradually bring their staff back on rotation.
“Our location in Chinatown was a blessing in disguise. When restrictions were lifted, people were eager to explore their city again, and we became a hotspot. We were overwhelmed and understaffed, but incredibly grateful to have survived the first lockdown,” said Makissa.
LaGula: A sweet addition
As The Hungry Tapir flourished, the family expanded their offerings with LaGula by The Hungry Tapir, a vegan dessert bar located right next door.
Like its sister restaurant, LaGula combines a love for food with creative flair, offering a range of plant-based sweets that are as visually appealing as they are delicious.
The expansion into desserts was a natural progression, given the growing interest in veganism and plant-based diets in KL. The family saw the opportunity to introduce something fresh to the market—a place where people could indulge guilt-free, knowing that everything on the menu was vegan.
“We wanted to create a space where even non-vegans would come, not because it’s vegan, but because it’s good. That’s the kind of response we’ve been getting, which is amazing.”
Interestingly, while one might assume the restaurant primarily caters to vegans, the reality is quite different.
“Our target audience isn’t just vegans. In fact, most of our customers are meat-eaters or tourists looking for something different. We wanted to create a space where people could enjoy great food without even thinking about it being vegan. It’s about the experience, the ambience, and of course, the flavours.”
A new wave of vegan eateries
Expansion is on the horizon, but they are treading carefully. “We’ve learnt so much from the challenges we faced, especially with COVID-19. We want to grow, but sustainably.”
There are plans to expand The Hungry Tapir and LaGula to other parts of KL and possibly beyond, but we’re taking it one step at a time,” she said.
In addition to expanding the physical locations, the team is also looking into diversifying its offerings.
“We’re exploring more plant-based products, perhaps even venturing into packaged goods that can be sold in stores. The idea is to bring our unique flavours to a wider audience, whether they visit us in Chinatown or pick up something from their local supermarket.”
The rise of veganism in Malaysia, though still niche, is gaining momentum, and The Hungry Tapir and LaGula are proud to be at the forefront.
“In KL, it’s still niche to find a fully vegan restaurant, but that’s changing. More people are open to trying vegan food, even if they’re not vegan themselves. It’s exciting to see this shift and be part of it.”
“At the end of the day, we want people to come here, enjoy the food, and forget that it’s vegan. That’s when we know we’ve done something right,” Makissa summed up.
- You can learn more about The Hungry Tapir here and LaGula by The Hungry Tapir here.
- Read other articles we’ve written about Malaysian startups here.
Featured Image Credit: The Hungry Tapir
